Collagen or hyaluronic acid?

In part one we learned that aging skin is partly the result of a change in the collagen, and lower levels of the large hyaluronic acid molecules in the skin matrix. And intrinsic and extrinsic factors play a role.

You can read more about that in part 1 here

The good news is that getting more hyaluronic acid in your diet can help.

Collagen & hyaluronic supplements

There are three types of collagen found in our bodies: type I, type II, and type III. The skin contains mostly type I, with some type III. The cartilage cushioning the joints is mostly type II.

Collagen supplements are made from animal collagen, mostly from bones and/or skin.

There are two main types of collagen supplements:

• Hydrolyzed and
• Undenatured type II collagen

Hydrolyzed collagen is collagen that’s been broken down by enzymes to make it easier to absorb and digest. Hydrolyzed collagen (a.k.a. collagen hydrosylate) can be taken at about 10 g/day for skin health and some joint benefit.

Undenatured collagen can be taken at about 40 mg/day for osteoarthritis and autoimmune rheumatoid arthritis.

Hyaluronic acid supplements are available in many countries, including Canada and the United States. It’s very popular in Japan where sales were about $250 million USD in 2012. Hyaluronic acid supplements are made from chicken combs, eggshell membrane, or by microbial fermentation of molasses or cheese whey.

“HA is a safe dietary supplement that does not harm the body.” Kawada et al., 2014.

NOTE: Always read and follow directions for use for a dietary supplement.

Skin benefits from ingesting hyaluronic acid (as a food and supplement)

The trend to ingesting hyaluronic acid (a.k.a. HA) for skin improvement started here:

“HA dietary supplements are expected to be effective anti-aging supplements because an American ABC News program, which aired in November 2002, stated that the key to longevity in a specific Japanese village was their HA-rich diet.” Kawada, et al., 2014

Just about all of the research on skin benefits of hyaluronic acid was done using supplements. It is found in food though the amount is much smaller than that of supplements, so it’s hard to say if the same benefits will be seen.

Hyaluronic acid was initially sold as a food back in 1942. It was used as a substitute for egg whites in baked goods.

It’s naturally found in fish intestines and livers. It’s also found in breast milk.

Hyaluronic acid is still used in some processed foods because of it’s gel-like consistency and ability to retain water.

This remarkable ability of hyaluronic acid to retain water, helps to moisturize the skin from the inside out.

“The hydration of the skin critically depends on the HA-bound water in the dermis and in the vital area of the epidermis…”, Papakonstantinou, et al., 2012.

NOTE: The epidermis is the outermost layer of the skin that we see and touch. The dermis is the layer directly underneath it.

Skin moisture goes beyond appearance of softer and smoother skin, it can also help reduce wrinkles and soothe itchy, irritated skin.

Several clinical studies have shown skin benefits of hyaluronic acid supplementation

For example, people with chronically rough and dry skin took hyaluronic acid supplements for six weeks. Their skin’s dryness significantly improved. It had more moisture and was smoother. They also found that both the 120 mg/day and the 240 mg/day had the same effects on the skin. (So the researchers don’t see a need to take more than 120 mg/day.)

In another placebo-controlled study, 280 mg hyaluronic acid per day for 30 days significantly increased skin’s moisture and pH (a measure of the skin’s acidity).

These skin moisturizing benefits have been seen with different sources of hyaluronic acid. Benefits were seen in people with dry skin taking hyaluronic acid supplements made from chicken combs, as well as those made from microbial fermentation. They both have been shown to work compared with placebo.

Plus, because the skin normally rejuvenates every 28 days, improvement continues for up to 2 weeks after stopping daily use.

Skin benefits from supplementing with hyaluronic acid and collagen

Supplementing with collagen has also shown many skin benefits.

For example, supplementing with type II collagen can accumulate in the skin. Secondly, it promotes the production of both type I collagen and hyaluronic acid in the skin.

Supplementing with hydrolyzed collagen can also help the skin because it stimulates the cells to produce hyaluronic acid.

Similar results happen when hyaluronic acid is taken along with collagen.

For example, a supplement containing both hydrolyzed collagen and hyaluronic acid was taken daily for 12 weeks. The results was a significant reduction in dryness and wrinkles, and a significant increase in the amount of collagen and hemoglobin in the skin.

The increased hemoglobin represents improved blood flow, which means more nutrients and oxygen to the skin, and improved waste removal.

A supplement with collagen and hyaluronic acid from eggshell membrane was also tested. After 5 weeks of use, there was a significant improvement in skin elasticity.  After 50 days participants were happy with the softness and hydration of their skin and the appearance of their hair.

There are non hyaluronic acid supplements that increase the production of collagen and hyaluronic acid

Aloe vera gel powder supplements have been shown to increase the skin’s ability to produce collagen and hyaluronic acid. One study of women in their 40’s with dry skin showed significantly diminished wrinkles (depth of wrinkles). This is thought to be because the plant sterols increase the skin’s production of collagen and hyaluronic acid (but more research is needed).

Pycnogenol is a substance extracted from pine bark. One study involved 20 post-menopausal women who took the supplement for 12 weeks. The result was significant hydration and elasticity of the skin.

In fact, the women with drier skin benefitted the most. On a molecular basis, the skin cells increased production of the enzyme that makes hyaluronic acid (hyaluronic acid synthase-1). The researchers also saw an increase in the gene that makes collagen.

3 ways ingesting hyaluronic acid helps moisturize the skin:

• Hyaluronic acid is absorbed by the gut and gets to the skin;
• Hyaluronic acid helps to increase the number of skin cells called fibroblasts;
• Hyaluronic acid promotes increased production of hyaluronic acid from fibroblasts.

So, it doesn’t just get to the skin to help retain moisture, it helps the skin make more cells and more hyaluronic acid as well.

“The amount of HA in the skin is one of the main factors that determines the skin moisture content. The metabolites of ingested HA moisturizes the skin.” Kawada et al., 2014.

FUN FACT: Your friendly gut microbes help your body digest and absorb hyaluronic acid from foods and supplements.

Summary

All of our skin ages over time. These happen naturally (intrinsic factors), as well as can be worsened with exposure to ultraviolet radiation, smoking, air pollution, and certain medications (extrinsic factors). See part 1

These cause skin to dry out and wrinkle because they lower the amount of collagen and hyaluronic acid in our skin. The collagen is critical for maintaining good structure and firmness, while the hyaluronic acid maintains moisture and hydration.

Ingesting collagen and hyaluronic acid can actually counteract some of these effects. Several clinical studies show that they improve the skin’s moisture content, and even improve blood flow. Both of which help with the skin’s health and appearance.

References available on request